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Wood Patterns for Inlay Bandings

Wood Patterns for Inlay Bandings

Cosmati wood pattern for wood inlay bandingWood patterns for inlay banding are varied. That’s one of the pleasures of making wood inlay banding. There are so many wood patterns to from which to choose. There are also so many wood choices to choose from when creating a wood pattern for inlay banding.



Learn How to Make Wood Patterns for Inlay Banding


Diamond wood inlay banding - wood patternsWhile there is very little information available on how to make your own wood inlay banding, it can still be accomplished by the woodworker in his or her workshop. How? If you follow along and I will show you how. These woodworking methods and techniques have been conceived of and developed by The Apprentice and The Journeyman in order to resurrect the lost art of making wood inlay banding in the workshop. We will work with simple wood patterns of inlay banding as well as complex wood patterns. There is something for all skill levels of woodworkers to enjoy.


Woodworking Methods to Create Designs in Wood


Diamond Wood Inlay Banding - SketchUp Wood PatternsMost woodworkers have a natural tendency to work with the table saw. However, when cutting wood segments my recommendation is to cut them on the band saw. Why? It’s safer. The small wood segments can fly off of a spinning table saw blade and often times it can be very difficult small segments accurately with the table saw. Can wood patterns for inlay banding be cut on the table saw? Yes, of course. However, many great wood patterns can be cut more safely on the band saw and that is our focus here.


Free Wood Patterns to Make Inlay Bandings


Free wood patterns for making wood inlay bandings can be found at the SketchUp Warehouse. (You’ll need a google account which is also free.) Search for wood inlay bandings and you will find the wood patterns that The Apprentice and Journeyman is sharing with you. There are variety of wood patterns to get you started. Keep in mind that there is no end grain showing on any of the inlay bandings. It is all face grain or side grain.



Related Wood Inlay Banding Articles & Woodworking Videos:

Woodworking How to – Make Diamond Wood Inlay Banding

Wood Inlay Banding – How to Make the Square Pattern

Wood Inlay Banding – How to Make Barber Pole Banding

Checkered Wood Inlay Banding


Watch more YouTube woodworking how to videos online.

…Your comments are welcomed…

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

Review…Ulmia Miter Clamps and Pinch Clamps

Ulmia miter clamps and pinch clamps for miter joints - Ulmia miter clamps for woodworking projects

Ulmia miter clamps and pinch clamps for miter joints

Ulmia Miter Clamps and Pinch Clamps

Ulmia miter clamps are simply amazing woodworking tools. A number of woodworkers have inquired about the Ulmia miter clamps used in the articles and videos of this blog. So, here is my response and a woodworking tool review of the Ulmia Miter Clamp set and Ulmia Pinch Clamps. These are terrific tools for clamping corners. Read on and you will understand why.

Over 30 years ago I took a deep breath as I purchased what I thought at the time were expensive woodworking tools for joining miter joints. The Ulmia miter clamps consist of a set of specialized pliers and clamp rings. There are also the smaller spring pinch clamps for securing an dead-on fit for the smaller miters. These clamping devices had a prominent place in my tool box 30 years ago and they still do today. Back then for a young carpenter serving my apprenticeship they seemed pretty pricey. However, the purchase was made as an investment and over time the investment has paid off handsomely. It’s hard to count the number of times that the Ulmia spring clamps and spring pinch clamps have been used on various wood projects. Simply put, these clamps have made the quality of my finish carpentry and woodworking in the shop much better. Here’s why.

Ulmia Pliers, ring clamps, and picture frame miter joints - Ulmia Miter Clamps and Pinch Clamps.

Ulmia Pliers, ring clamps, and picture frame miter joints.

As finish carpenters and woodworkers we often work with miter joints. We may cut miters for all types of moulding…crown, base, chair rail, you name it. Anytime we fit and glue miters we need to secure the joint until the glue sets. The same applies to many other miter situations with wood projects in the shop and the Ulmia miter clamps do a superb job. These tools are a cinch to work with as they allow the woodworker to simply go from miter to miter with ease. The Ulmia pliers and ring clamps work well on larger miter joints when more pressure is needed to secure the joint. The Ulmia spring pinch clamps perform well for the smaller miter joints requiring less pressure. I recommend these tools in a heartbeat and chances are you’ll be glad to have them when gluing miter joints in your woodworking shop. The Ulmia miter clamps allow the woodworker to work more accurately while working faster. The Ulmia miter clamps and spring pinch clamps definitely allow the finish carpenter and woodworker to work with a greater sense of self confidence. Simply align the miter joint and fasten the miter clamp. Keep in mind, these priceless tool will last you a lifetime.

Here are examples of why I enjoy working with the Ulmia miter clamps and spring pinch clamps.

Ulmia Spring Pinch clamp secures a glued miter joint - Ulmia Miter Clamps and Pinch Clamps

An Ulmia Pinch clamp secures a glued miter joint.

Related Videos and Articles:

Let’s Build a Jewelry Box…Part 3

Let’s Make Picture Frames with the Dedicated Miter Sled

Mastering the Miter Joint

How to Make Perfect Miter Joints

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University


21…Let’s Build a Jewelry Box…Part 4

Earl Nightingale…”You become what you think about.”

This woodworking online episode is part of the Let’s Build Series

Woodworking Tips and Techniques:

1.) Green adhesive tape is used to control the spread of the wood glue.
2.) The MDF is concealed by gluing a rabbeted top onto the veneered side walls.
3.) Paper shims are used against the adjustable stop block on the cross cut sled when trimming the box lid.
4.) The lid is placed directly onto the existing box to mark for cutting its width and length. (no measuring is needed.)
5.) The jewelry box lid is cut for length by using a cross cutting sled for the table saw.
6.) Bevels for the lid are cut with a sliding woodworking jig for the table saw.

In the woodworking shop we continue the building of the jewelry box by preparing to glue the rabbeted top onto the wood veneered side walls. To control the spread of the yellow glue we place green tape next to the area that is to be glued. Once all the adhesive tape is in place we curl the bottom of the tape so it becomes a catch for any possible dripping glue. The next step is to spread the wood glue onto the top of the walls and also onto the bottom side of the Koa rabbeted top. When we have spread the glue we place the top in its place and adjust for the 1/16″ overhang in each direction. For the purpose of clamping we set the oversized lid on top of the jewelry box and then place a few weights on this fine woodworking project.

How to make an accurate fit for the lid.

When the adhesive is set we turn our attention to fitting the lid to the rabbeted top. Here we will place the lid against the rabbets and mark for width and length using a sharp pencil. Next it is time to rip the lid on the table saw and return to the jewelry box for fitting. Since the lid is just a hair wide we take the piece to the jointer to remove a very small amount. Once the width is OK we cut for length at the table saw using the cross cut sled. When we test for length we are a bit long so we head back to the cross cut sled. In this situation we keep the stop block in place. We simply fold a piece of paper over to act as a shim and place it next to the stop block. Then we slide the lid against the shim to make our trim cut. Next, we successfully fit the lid into the rabbets where there is an even margin at all four sides.

Our lid will have beveled sides and ends so we will cut the bevels at the table saw with the aid of a shop made woodworking jig. This table saw accessory fits over the Biesemeyer fence and slides along table saw fence in a controlled manner as there is a convenient handle that forces the jig downwards and forwards. The lid is secured in the jig with a horizontal quick-release toggle clamp. Note: The table saw jig also serves as a tenoning jig.

Watch more woodworking videos!

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

20…Let’s Build a Jewelry Box…Part 3

”Dreams are made possible if you try.” …Terry Fox

This episode is part of the Let’s Build Series

Woodworking Tips and Techniques:

1.) Using blue adhesive tape to aid the gluing process.
2.) Using Ulmia spring clamps for assembly and fitting of miter joints.
3.) Cutting perfect miter joints on the table saw using the Dedicated Miter Sled.

In Part 3 of this how to build a jewelry box video series we are back in the woodworking shop as we continue working on the Koa wood veneer jewelry box. We have previously fit the components together during a dry run so it is now time to apply yellow glue to the miter joints. First though, we need to tape the walls of the wooden box with blue tape. This will act as a hinge as it will allow us to spread the glue into the open miters and then swing the walls to close the joints. Also, when you only have two hands the blue tape greatly simplifies the task.

Koa wood veneer packets prepared for wood glue.

When the miter joints of the box are closed we can now clamp the corner woodworking joints tight with the Ulmia clamps. These pinch clamps are worth their weight in gold as they secure the miter joint while the adhesive sets. Notice how each miter joint has a spring clamp at the top and the bottom. This give equal pressure throughout the joint and assures alignment along the length of the joint. Note: We will make sure to check our wood project for square by measuring diagonally across the jewelry box and getting equal measurements.

When the wood glue is firming up we can apply blue adhesive tape next to the rabbets since we will be gluing the rabbets to receive the base. The application of the blue tape will help to contain the yellow glue and prevent it from reaching the surface of the wood veneers. We want keep the glue in the joints only. Any excess glue that reaches the veneer surface will create unnecessary work for us and can complicate the wood finish that will later be applied.

Since we have glued the rabbets we will continue by gluing the edges of the base and fitting the base to the rabbets of our woodworking project. When the veneered base is set in place we can proceed to securely clamp the wooden box. Note: Because our base is comprised of an MDF core with both sides veneered we can glue all four edges of the base because there is virtually no wood movement unlike a solid wood base.

After the glue has dried we take the jewelry box to our woodworking bench where we set up our bench dogs to the bench top adjacent to our woodworking vise. With our Koa veneered box we prepare to clean off the glue residue with our card scraper. When we are finished scraping the glue we then sand by hand to smooth the surface.

Our attention now turns to the box lid and how it will be housed in place. We are using solid Koa wood for the lid as well using Koa to cover the tops of the veneered walls. The tops of the veneered walls will have a slight overhang and will also be mitered at the corners. These tops will include rabbets to allow the lid to seat. We create the rabbets on the table saw using dado blades along with a sacrificial dado fence. In this section of the video we pay close attention to the safety accessories employed. Notice the handled push block used when cutting the rabbets. It controls the stock being cut and also keeps our hand away from the blades. When the rip cuts are made we use a splitter and a long push stick that keeps our hands at a safe distance as well as secures that the material is flat on the table saw top as the material is fed through the saw blade.

Our next job for this woodworking project is to cut the miters on the dedicated miter sled while ensuring a proper fit to the top of the veneered box. No tape measure or rule is needed as we mark everything based on its placement to the box. This eliminates any chance of error in measurement while creating a very accurate marking. With this procedure in place we will simply mark and cut as needed and then secure the miter joints with spring clamps. When all four miters are fit we will glue and clamp them.

The box lid is dimensioned for thickness by using two power tools; a bench top planer and an open drum sander. The planer does most of the work, however for the final dimensioning and smoothing the lid is run through the open drum sander. Woodworking Tip: Because the lid is of curly koa there is a chance for grain tearout so this is one important reason why the final dimensions for the lid take place on the open drum sander.

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

18…Let’s Build a Jewelry Box…Part 1

“Don’t let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.”
…Earl Nightingale

This episode is part of the Let’s Build Series

Woodworking Tips and Techniques:

1.) Slicing wood veneer on the Band Saw.
2.) Laminating veneers.
3.) How to veneer using a Vacuum Press.

Woodworking tools for this episode include the band saw, table saw, and the vacuum press.

As woodworkers we seek to challenge ourselves as a way to improve our craft. Sometimes we take on a fine woodworking project to learn new techniques of the wood craft. As a result, this requires us to hone our current woodworking skills and also forces us to broaden our range of skills. One way to test ones performance is to work with a minimum amount of material to see if the project can be completed with accuracy and efficiency. This was the goal of creating a jewelry box with beautifully grained premium curly Koa . Our challenge in this how to article and video series is to build a decorative jewelry box of koa wood veneer. We will be using a vacuum press to laminate the veneers.

In the Hawaiian language Koa means brave, bold, fearless, or a warrior. This is the mindset we adopt for our woodworking project as we choose to work with confidence and efficiency. We will draw upon all of our skills and experience developed over our time practicing our woodcraft and we now focus on mastering the techniques required for this project at hand. Are you game? Let’s begin!

The Band Saw…slicing wood veneer.

We are going to cut veneer to a thickness of 3/32. First of all, in order to make this happen we will need to account for band saw “drift.”

How do we determine band saw drift?
We will take a straight and flat piece of scrap wood about 2” wide x 20″ long and scribe a straight line along its length. We will set the regular band saw fence aside and then we’ll free hand the cut along the line. After about 12″ – 16″ of cutting we now have a good idea of the angle of drift. Next, we keep the board in place and use a bevel square to reference the drift angle. Then we’ll align the band saw fence to the newly found drift angle by using the bevel square while also allowing a 3/32″ clearance between the fence and the band saw blade. Now, we will want to test the setup for accuracy. To do so we just take another piece of scrap (to replicate our good stock) and run it through the band saw. When we have a straight and parallel section of wood veneer sliced at 3/32″ we are ready to proceed. We need to take our time and be patient because the setup is worth it. With accuracy comes our reward in the form of confidence and efficiency.

Why not use the original band saw fence for slicing wood veneer?
There is a better way. Notice that the workshop made band saw fence in the woodworking video is tall to accommodate for wide veneers. The tall fence allows the us to push the stock forward while assuring the material is pressed against the fence. On the other hand, the wide base of the fence allows us an area to adequately clamp the fence to the band saw table. Note:The fence must be 90 degrees to the base. (Building an accurate shopmade, made band saw fence for ripping wood veneer is one of the good small wood projects for those new to woodworking as it can easily be constructed with scrap materials such as MDF or plywood. Keep in mind…The material selected must be flat and straight.)

What if I don’t have any push sticks?
If we want to play in the Big Leagues we will need the necessary skills, equipment, and attitude. We want to always work safely!
We make a variety of push sticks and we keep them handy. Keep our hands and fingers clear of the band saw blade.

Laminating Veneers
Woodworking tips….
Preparation makes a difference. We want to allow enough space on our woodworking bench for gluing our veneers to the 1/4″ MDF cores. In this case we will use yellow glue. We will need veneer tape to join the veneers on both sides of the MDF core. (As you can see in the woodworking video a scrap block was used to spread the glue as well as an acid brush.) Also, we will need some blue tape to fasten the veneer packets once they are glued. Remember, we will need to work fast due to the glue’s setup time. So, we need to stay focused and get the veneer packets into the vacuum press asap. Note: On the day of gluing the veneers it was over 100 degrees so we had to work quickly and efficiently.

Using a Vacuum Press.
We want to allow plenty of space for the vacuum bag. We also want to have a platen prepared to cover our veneers packets as well. In the video we cut a particle board platen to the overall size of our veneer packets. (To protect the bag from potential tears we round over the corners of the platen.) Once the packets and platen are in place in the vacuum press bag then it is just a matter of sealing the vacuum bag with the provided clamps and turning on the vacuum pump.

Watch the woodworking video…Let’s Build a Jewelry Box…Part 2

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

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