wood inlay - 2/4 - The Apprentice and the Journeyman

How to Make Picture Frames with Wood Inlay

December 2, 2010 By Bob Simmons 3 Comments

The Problem…
When you want to apply quality wood inlay to your woodworking projects…where will you get it? What designs will you get? How much will you have to pay for it?
The Solution…
We use our woodworking skills and make our own wood inlay in the workshop. (We will make our own picture frame moulding too!)

In this post we sharing how to make picture frames with wood inlay. As you seen in previous postings we have been busy creating bandings of shop made wood inlay. There are a variety of wood inlay designs now available for our use at this time. So now we are in the process of creating picture frame moulding that has a dado which will house the wood inlays. The moulding was created on the tablesaw and on the router table using a 3/4″ round over bit with a ball bearing guide.

The gallery of pictures reveal the set up for operations on the table saw and for the band saw. (The router table was set up with the fence and featherboards as well.)

: Dial caliper measure thickness of wood inlay banding

: Wood Inlay Bandings

: Bandsaw setup for ripping wood inlay bandings

: Dado Setup on the tablesaw with featherboards and sacrificial fence.

: Table saw setup with dado blades, featherboards, and scarificial fence.(side view)

: Picture Frame Moulding made in the Woodworking Shop

: Wood Inlay Designs for Picture Frames

All the wood inlay bandings are cut to a uniform thickness of just a hair over 1/16″ as measured by a dial caliper. The set up that you see allows for control of this uniform thickness. The shop made bandsaw rip fence has been adjusted for band saw blade “drift” and the Rockler thin rip table saw jig with a roller bearing is set to the desired thickness for the wood inlay bandings. Note: The jig remains stationary for this operation and the rip fence is adjusted before each rip cut is made. Simply slide the material over against the bearing on the right and then slide the rip fence alongside the left side of the material to be ripped. This technique works wonderfully. 1.) Maximize the material as there is very, very little waste! 2.)All ripped bandings are of uniform thickness!

The pictures of the table saw operation reveal a sacrificial fence for the dado blade. Notice how the featherboards control how the material will be maintained during the cut. The is no upward or lateral movement. The only direction for the wood is forward. (This is also applies to the band saw ripping technique…just one direction of movement…forward!)

We can also see the variety of wood inlays in the dados of the picture frame moulding. It’s nice to have a variety of choices from which to select. (The mouldings are made from a tropical wood called Cumala.)

Recommended Videos…Cutting Thin Strips on the Band Saw

…Making Wood Inlay on the Bandsaw

Check out exquisite wood inlay designs…Buffard Freres…The 1926 Wood Inlay Banding Catalog

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

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Filed Under: Category #1, Featured, Inlay, Let's Build, Tutorial Tagged With: banding, picture frames, wood inlay

Buffard Freres…The 1926 Wood Inlay Banding Catalog

November 27, 2010 By Bob Simmons 9 Comments

“Never underestimate the power of a single thought.”
Ender…(1966 – ) Salesman and Friend

Page 10 of the Buffard Freres wood inlay catalog...1134...1144

I first learned of the Buffard Freres and their creative wood inlay bandings through the Finewoodworking.com article entitled Inlay Banding and Buffard Freres. The wonderful and informative article was written by Joseph McDermott. The original postings of this article can be found on Joseph’s site, Fine Fettling. It is here that Joseph relates the finding of a 1926 Buffard Freres trade catalog which contains hundreds of their art deco wood inlay banding patterns.

When I first saw these beautiful bandings of wooden inlays I felt the excitement and the desire to learn similar to what I first felt when serving my woodworking apprenticeship. Obviously, these patterns are so remarkably unique. I thought to myself that these are truly great designs of highly trained craftsman who took the craft of woodworking to a much higher level. The Buffard Freres offered so many exquisite wood inlay designs from which to choose. Then another thought came over me. How are these designs actually created in the woodworking shop? Suddenly, these wonderful bandings became like puzzles to me. It’s as if these works of art were calling and teasing the woodworker in me to figure out how they could be accurately reproduced in the woodworking shop. Needless to say, I have scratched my head a few times along this journey and I feel like I am only at the beginning.

Since many of the banding patterns shown on page 10 of the Buffard Freres catalog appear quite complex I thought it would best to start figuring out the process of how some of the simpler bandings could be duplicated.

Bandings 1134 – 1145 are pictured and here is where I’ll begin my interpretation of the woodworking process that I have used in my attempts to recreate these bandings.

Picture frames with wood inlay

Note: Keep in mind that all of the exposed wood grain is either edge grain or side grain. In essence all end grain is concealed.

Bandings 1134 – 1141 are all similar in that all interior segment widths are crosscut and sandwiched between contrasting outer veneers. I interpret this group of bandings as being made using the same essential technique which is applying a horizontally grained segment next to a vertically grained segment within the banding core.

Dimensioning:
I’ll now use the design of 1140 as an example. Imagine that this banding is about 10″ long, 3/8” tall, and is 4″ wide.

The Red Segment:
Let’s say that this segment is 1” long and 1/4″ tall. To make this segment I set up my crosscut sled for the bandsaw and clamp a stop block 1″ from the saw blade and make repetitive crosscuts from a strip that is 1/4″ x 10″ X 4”. (The grain runs along its length.)

The black and white segments:
Let’s say the white segments are 3/16″ long x 1/4″ tall x 4″ wide.

To achieve these segments…Dimension two veneers of the white material that are 3/16″ thick x 10″ long x 4″ wide. (These are the finished dimensions so add a little extra for the length and the width in the beginning. Maintain a thickness of 3/16″. The width and length will eventually be properly sized.) These two veneers will have the grain running along its length. Also, these white veneers will also sandwich the black segment to form a white/black/white segment.

Let’s say the black segments are 3/8″ long x 1/4″ tall x 4″ wide.

The finished dimension the black material will be 1/4″ thickness and 10″ long and 4″ wide. (Make the rough dimensions of the length and width a bit larger.) The grain will run along the length.) The black material will be sandwiched inside the outer layers of the white veneers.

Gluing the white and black segments:

We want the black strip inside of the two outer white veneers. Brush on white glue evenly across the interior surfaces and align all edges. Now use cauls and plastic to cover the outer white veneers.Clamp securely and allow for drying. When the sandwich is dry cut to a finish dimension of 3/4” thick x 10″ long x 4″ wide.

Wood inlay sandwich and segment

Crosscutting the white/black/white segments:

Use the band saw crosscut sled and clamp a stop block on the fence 1/4″ from the saw blade kerf. Make a test cut on scrap and use a caliper to make sure that this dimension is equal to the 1/4″ thickness of the red segments. Make adjustments to the stop block as necessary. When we have the dimension equal to the thickness of the red segment we can then make repetitive crosscuts to create the white/black/white segments.

The two Outer Veneers:

The finished dimensions will be 1/8″ x 10″ x 4″ with the grain running along the length. Slightly oversize the outer veneers for now. (Allow for a bit of error as the segments are fit and glued within the sandwich.)The finished dimensions will be cut after the entire banding sandwich is glued and dried.

Gluing the Banding Together:
Let’s say the two outer veneers are 1/8″ thick x 10″ long X 4″ wide. Take the bottom outer veneer and evenly brush on a light coating of the slow setting white glue across its surface.
1.) Place a red segment on the glue at one end of the outer veneer. (The grains will run in the same direction.)
2.) Brush glue on the sides and bottom of the white/black/white segment and lightly press it against the red segment. (The grain of the vertical white/black/white segment will be perpendicular to the grain of the horizontal red segment. The end grain of the red segment will be glued to the face grain of the white segment.)
3.) Spread glue on the two end grained sides and bottom of the red segment and align it alongside of the white/black/white segment.
4.) Repeat the process for the following segments and end with a segment that is opposite of the starting segment.
(By having opposite segments at the end this will allow us to add continuous bandings strips and maintain the same pattern.)
5.) Once all segments are glued in place on the bottom outer veneer apply a coating of glue on top of all segments and brush on a coating of glue to the top outer veneer. Place the top outer veneer onto the segments to complete the banding sandwich.
6.) Make sure the segments are in alignment. The next step is clamping the wood sandwich. Make sure that you have plastic between the sandwich and the cauls.
7.) When the sandwich is dry it is time the cut it to the finish dimensions of 3/8″ x 10″ x 4″.
8.) Strips of banding can be ripped to 3/32″ on the band saw when our projects call for them.

More Articles and Videos…

Making Wood Inlay on the Bandsaw

The Band Saw Sleds:

1.) The Bandsaw Crosscut Sled
2.) The Dedicated Band Saw Miter Sled
3.) The Tilting Miter Sled for the Band Saw

Also important…The Bandsaw Rip Fence for Cutting Thin Strips

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

Filed Under: Featured, Inlay, Segmented, Tutorial Tagged With: banding, Segments, wood inlay, wood veneer

Making Wood Inlay on the Bandsaw

November 25, 2010 By Bob Simmons 14 Comments

When a woodworker searches the web to learn how to make wood inlay bandings there is little information to be found. In fact there seems to be very little information about how the masters of wood inlay created the wonderful patterns that are sometimes seen on museum quality furniture. However, there are some patterns of wood inlay from the Buffard Freres that offer a glimpse into the world of classic wood inlay from Paris. After studying these inlay designs the urge hit me to figure out how to could duplicate some of these patterns. What I am learning of this “lost art” I will attempt to share with those interested.

: Collection of Wood Inlay Patterns

: Wood inlay banding in a vice during glue up

When I first began making wood inlay bandings my tool of choice was the table saw. However, my work has evolved and now my band saw is getting a workout. I like working with the band saw for cutting wood inlay segments for a number of reasons.
1). I find it safer when working with smaller or narrower wood pieces.
2.) There is no chance of kickback on a band saw.
3.) The band saw offers a great deal of control when working with sleds and the band saw rip fence.

The Band Saw Sleds:

1.) The Bandsaw Crosscut Sled
2.) The Dedicated Band Saw Miter Sled
3.) The Tilting Miter Sled for the Band Saw

Also important…The Bandsaw Rip Fence for Cutting Thin Strips

The three sleds and the rip fence each take 10-15 minutes to make and they can be made from scrap material in the workshop. The sleds are highly accurate and efficient. Actually, I had not seen or heard of any band saw sleds before I thought of cutting wood inlay segments on the band saw. My band saw sleds are an original thought that I developed for the purpose of cutting wood inlay segments. The sleds have opened up a new dimension for my band saw work and it’s as if my band saw has suddenly been upgraded.

When preparing stock for wood inlay it is important that the material is dimensioned properly. The material being used needs to be flat and of uniform thickness. I use the open drum sander for this operation.

When using a sled I clamp a stop block to the fence so that segments are cut to a uniform width or length.

So far the segments for the wood inlay I have created have been cut at either 90 degrees or 45 degrees. For the 90 degree cuts I use the crosscut sled. When making 45 degree cuts I use either the dedicated miter sled or the tilting miter sled depending on the particular cut to be made. Keep in mind is that the bandings do not have exposed end grain. The wood grain shown is either edge grain or face grain.

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

Filed Under: Category #1, Featured, Inlay, Tutorial Tagged With: banding, crosscut sled, Rip fence, Segments, wood inlay

Creating your own Wood Inlay Bandings…The Secrets Revealed

November 24, 2010 By Bob Simmons 9 Comments

“I have missed more than 9,000 shots in my career. I have lost almost 300 games. On 26 occasions I have been entrusted to take the game winning shot…and missed. I have failed over and over and over again in my life. And that’s precisely why I succeed.”
Michael Jordan…(1963 – ) Former professional basketball player, active businessman, and majority owner of the Charlotte Bobcats.

Wood inlay has a mystique about it. Some of the finest furniture created by craftsmen have custom and intricate inlay designs that cause onlookers to pay special attention and take a closer look. There are times that a simple stringing of wood inlay can make a lasting impression. Then again there are instances when intricate inlay patterns make one stop to try to figure out how in the world the craftsman ever created such a magnificent design of varying colored woods. The problem that remains for many woodworkers is that there is little information to be found on how to create bandings for wood inlay. Here, we begin our journey in how to craft decorative wood inlay bandings.

: 2 Wood Inlay Designs

: Crosscutting wood inlay on the Band Saw

: Wood Inlay Segments Cut on the Bandsaw

Consider this article as a preview. In following articles we are going to take an in depth look at how different wood inlay designs are made. We are going to simplify and set aside the mystique of wood inlay. In the woodworking shop we are going to create wood inlay bandings of unique designs that will adorn furniture, jewelry boxes, picture frames, and more. These articles about creating wood inlay in the shop may pleasantly surprise those who decide to follow along. Get ready to take a closer look at creating your own custom wood inlays.

Note: The following is the cut pattern for “Barber Pole” wood inlay. The Tilting Band Saw Miter Sled is used to cut this pattern. The angles are 45 degrees.

The following band saw accessories will be used in creating shop made wood inlay bandings:

Band Saw Rip Fence

Band Saw Crosscut Sled

The Tilting Bandsaw Miter Sled

The Dedicated Bandsaw Miter Sled
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The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

Filed Under: Inlay, Tutorial Tagged With: banding, crosscut sled, Segments, wood inlay, wood veneer

28…Let’s Build a Bandsaw Miter Sled

November 19, 2010 By Bob Simmons 15 Comments

“I will see it when I believe it.”
Dr. Wayne Dyer…Motivational author and speaker (1940 – )

Miter Cut on Bandsaw Miter Sled

There are many times while in the shop working on wood projects that we find a need of various woodworking jigs and then at times we also will have a need for an assortment of saw accessories. Sometimes we need to make a shop accessory while in the middle of our wood project and then again there are instances when our project is actually the building of a shop accessory. In either case here is a crosscut sled that you may find very handy at some point. Let me introduce you to the dedicated bandsaw miter sled. You’ll be glad to learn how to make a miter sled for your bandsaw.

Cutting a Miter with the Bandsaw Miter Sled

One of my favorite cross cutting sleds made in the workshop is the dedicated bandsaw miter sled and the reason I like it so much is because it is great for working with smaller material. Now, often times I will use the dedicated miter sled for the table saw for the miter cutting of larger wood pieces. However, when there is a need to cut a miter on smaller material I choose the dedicated bandsaw miter sled for making the cuts because it too is very safe, accurate, and efficient.

The beauty of the dedicated bandsaw miter sled is its simplicity. It is easy to make from wood scraps in just 10 minutes and you will be is ready to cut dead-on miter joints immediately thereafter. One of my favorite uses for this saw sled is miter cutting when fitting and installing bandings of wood inlay. It works especially well when cutting segments for an wood inlay pattern called “Wolf’s Tooth“.