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June 24, 2017

How to Make Picture Frames with the Table Saw Miter Sled

Picture Frames Made with a Miter Sled

 

“Learning never exhausts the mind.”
Leonardo da Vinci…(1452-1519) Architect, musician, anatomist, inventor, engineer, sculptor, and painter.

Picture Frames made in the Wood Shop

Making picture frames in the woodworking shop is fun especially when we have a system in which to work. In this case we are making the picture frames from picture moulding that was made on the router table and also on the table saw using dado blades. The dado on the moulding will house the decorative wood inlay that we have previously created in the workshop. (It is nearing the Christmas Holidays at the time of this writing and we have quite a few gifts to make.)

Cutting miter joints for picture frames

Cutting miter joints for picture frames

 

Picture Frames made in Production

 The picture frames that we are making have mitered corners so we are using the dedicated miter sled for the table saw. The sled is set up to cut perfect miter joints and this will allow us to go into production mode as we are building 12 picture frames at this time. Each of the picture frames will display pictures that are 5″ x 7″. The picture moulding is of a Peruvian wood called Camala.

 

The System of making Picture Frames

1.) Using the crosscut sled…Crosscut the moulding lengths slightly oversized.

2.) Divide the lengths into two separate piles (if the sides and top/bottom of the frame are unequal.)

3.) Using the dedicated miter sled… Cut a right miter on all moulding members.

4.) Determine the actual length needed for the sides, use a stop block to control the cut length, and cut the opposite miter.

5.) Determine the actual length need for the top/bottom, use a stop block to control the cut length, and cut the opposite miter.

6.) At the workbench… Assemble the frames by fitting, gluing, and using spring clamps to secure the miter joints in place.

 

Having a dedicated miter sled enables us to create wood projects that have miters with dead-on accuracy. Using the above system with the miter sled allows for production work that is quick and efficient. Appreciate the process and enjoy the results!

 


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

A French Built Dedicated Miter Sled

Hello Bob
I’ve seen one of yours videos ( a very interesting video) for a miter sled
I’ve decided to do one for my table saw : all is in the video

Thanks a lot for all yours videos

Have a nice day

Diggerjacks – France

A fellow woodworker who lives in France recently saw one of The Apprentice and The Journeyman’s woodworking videos, Building a Dedicated Miter Sled for the Table Saw. So, he decided to build table saw sled for his workshop. This dedicated miter sled certainly is a beauty and is very well made. It has a plywood base and the woodworker has wisely selected straight grained wood for his fences. Notice how the tall sweeping fence allows for the hands to comfortably push the sled with plenty of clearance from the saw blade. It’s a smart safety feature as well as an elegant design. With an accurate interior fence set at dead-on 90 degrees our fellow woodworker has elevated his woodworking and now he will be confidently cutting perfect table saw miters with ease for a long time. Also, by using a stop block and a clamp along the interior fences he can control the lengths of his cuts with precision.

Another great feature of the sled is that it can also serve as a crosscut sled. 90 degree cuts can also be made when placing stock against the tall fence closest to the woodworker. One can see that the interior fence have an adequate length to cut miters and yet there is also ample room for making crosscuts as well. This is very handy for making quick square cuts and also repetitive uniform cuts of equal length when a stop block is in place.The dedicated miter sled allows for excellent control, dead-on accuracy, and the ability to go into shop production mode for fine woodworking.

Diggerjacks…Great job and thank you for sending in the comment and pictures of your recent build to share with fellow woodworkers!
If you have a build that they would like to share please send your message as well as the pictures of your wood projects.

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

13…Let’s Build a Dedicated Dado Sled for the Table Saw

This episode is part of the Let’s Build Series

The dedicated dado sled for the table saw is a highly versatile woodworking shop fixture that can expand the woodworking approaches used by many woodworkers. (The woodworking video shows how to make a precision dado sled for the tablesaw.) Dado blades are used on the table saw instead of a typical saw blade and the dado blades are often said to be “stacked.” This term implies that the dado blades, chippers, and shims are combined to create a certain width. For example, a width of a dado may be determined by the thickness of shelves in a bookcase that will fit into the dado. Perhaps you want to create dentil moulding. The dado sled is an excellent choice for repetitive cuts. As you can imagine this shop accessory can be very useful to the cabinet maker, the custom furniture maker, or the typical woodworker as the dado widths can be adjusted up to 13/16″ on this crosscut sled.

Joinery that can be cut with this table saw sled include: slots, dadoes, grooves, half laps joints, rabbets, and finger joints. As mentioned previously, you can even make your own dentil moulding for a cornice with the dado sled. A reference key is set up on the dado sled fence to control the equal spacing of the dentils just as it is done for creating finger joints. The adjustable dado spacing feature is an add on to the basic dado sled, however you will find it very easy to build and quite useful.

Note:
Take incremental passes with the dado blade to increase the depth of cut. How much material you remove at one time will depend upon the density of the material being cut.
A dado set may be purchased as a “stacked dado” set or an adjustable wobble set.
Most dado blades sold today are carbide saw blades.
Dado saw blades can be used in the table saw or radial arm saw.
Dado blades work well on hardwoods, soft woods, and sheet goods. Use the instruction manual that comes with the dado blade set as a guide.
A dado table saw sled is economical to build and is highly effective for production work.
Set the dado sled for zero clearance for safety and to avoid tearout.
(If you have made a wide dado and now want a narrow dado.)To create a fresh zero clearance you can simply layer the the top of the sled’s base with a thin sheet of plywood or mdf. Make sure to firmly attach the new surface to the existing sled with screws or double stick tape.
On the fence directly in front of the operator there is a 4” x 4” block of wood. This is installed as a constant reminder of the spinning blades of the dado blade. The top of the block is elevated far above the blades and can serve as a handle for pushing and pulling the dado sled. Always use caution and think safety first.

The dado set used in the above woodworking video is the Freud SD508 Super Dado 8-inch Stack Dado. The set includes 2 blades, a shim set, 6 chippers, and a protective case. The blades are eight inch, 24-tooth blades for table saws with 5/8″ arbors.


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

How to make Bandings for Wood Inlay…Part 2

In Part 2 we continue to learn how to make decorative wood inlay bandings.

Once the banding segments are organized we can now focus on creating the interior design. We’ll need a few outer rippings that will sandwich the segments together and keep them in alignment. You’ll notice in the picture that the outer hardwoods are walnut and maple glued together. In this case the walnut will be on the inside with the maple on the outside. The reason for this is to create contrasting colors within the wood inlay bandings. This will stand out nicely once laid into the mahogany picture frames.

Here you can see the completed wood inlay bandings as they appear after gluing. 1.) Notice how the triangular segments nestle and align with one another. 2.) Also, take a close look at how the maple, walnut, and cherry contrast one another within the pattern’s design. 3.) The length of the wood inlay bandings are a greater than the longer side of the picture frame to be inlaid. This means a full wood inlay bandings length can be inlaid into the frame which eliminates smaller banding pieces being fit and glued. 4.) Two for the price of one…The two wood inlay bandings pictured are of similar design, however their interior designs have opposite color combinations. (Remember that we organized the segments into two separate piles in Part 1.)

The block plane has jointed one side of the wood inlay banding being held in the bench vise and now the designs for the wood inlays are clearly revealed.

The two wood inlay bandings pictured are a result of our work in this tutorial. Each of the wood inlay bandings shown above will be more than enough for a picture frame.

The first wood inlay banding pattern has been ripped on the bandsaw and we have (6) bandings of 1/8″ thickness. The second banding pattern will produce the same.

A simple mitre jig clamped to the workbench and a fine toothed dovetail saw are all that are needed to cut mitres for our wood inlay bandings. You will notice in the companion video, How to install Wood Inlay that a sanding block is used to trim the decorative wood inlay bandings for proper fit. The sanding block is simply a fine grit sanding belt from a belt sander tightly wrapped around a block of wood.

Now it’s just a matter of trimming and fitting the inlay into the project. Note: When sanding the finished project remember that the banding is fairly thin and that the wood veneer can quickly disappear.

Once you acquire the skill of creating wood inlay bandings you’ll more than likely develop a desire to create more banding designs. You’ll likely find yourself making “wood jewelry” in your woodworking shop. Moreover, if you are a woodworker like me you’ll soon have a family of inlaid frames on your walls as well. Good luck with your inlay and fine woodworking projects and be sure to let me know if you have any questions. I hope you enjoyed this inlay how to and if you would like to share your wood projects be sure to send them to this link.


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

How to make Wood Inlay Bandings…Part 1

Has there ever been a time when you came across decorative wood inlay bandings that were inlaid into a fine piece of furniture, perhaps a jewelry box, or even a distinctive picture frame. Then you asked yourself the question “How did they create a banding of this design?” A few times I have wondered that same question too. Fortunately, a few years ago I came across a terrific woodworking video. It was on this video that I witnessed a craftsman as he explained the process of how to create wood inlay bandings of this particular design. In part 1 of this article we will learn how to make decorative wood inlay bandings. The following is my interpretation of the veneer inlay techniques.

Pictured above is the look that we are after. Notice how the color designs of the wood inlay bandings are different from one another and yet their basic pattern is alike. This woodworking tutorial will show you how to get two wood inlay bandings for the price of one.
Hardwoods of maple, walnut, and cherry were chosen for the wood inlay. A 7/16″ wide plough was dadoed into the face of the picture frames so the the wood inlay bandings will be made just a bit wider than that. Later they will be trimmed by sanding and then fit into place.

Decorative wood inlay bandings

For ripping I use a thin rip tablesaw jig. Set the bearing of the jig in front to the left side of the blade for your desired width of cut. Now, adjust the board to be cut against the bearing and then slide the table saw fence over to the right side of the board. Then lock the fence. The maple board is ready to be ripped as it has already been through the thickness planer and the parallel edges have been prepared at the jointer. In the picture above notice that a zero clearance insert is being used along with a table saw splitter while ripping. This is critically important to avoid kickback.

Decorative wood inlay bandings

Here you can see the interior strips that are being glued together. Notice how walnut and maple contrast one another.

Hand Planing bandings - Decorative wood inlay bandings

One edge of the banding interior has been jointed with the block plane to form a straight edge. So now we can take the piece over to the band saw.

Creating bandings - Decorative wood inlay bandings

At the band saw we will rip the rough edge off so we will have two parallel edges for the interior of the banding. Then we are ready to create the segments that will form the design for the banding interior.

Decorative wood inlay bandings

The segments are cut on the table saw with the aid of a sled that provides zero clearance. The fence on the left is set to 45 degrees to the sawblade. A preliminary 45 degree cut has been made and now the right side of the blade and the short point of the banding’s angle are in alignment. Notice how the stopblock on the right is set to the long point of the banding. This will give consistent segment lengths for all of our cuts.

Once a segment is cut just simply flip the banding edge for edge and continue this practice after each segment is cut. Note: 1.) A sharp blade is imperative. 2.) Stay on the safe side and wear a faceshield.

Banding segments for wood inlay - Decorative wood inlay bandings

Now the segments are cut and it’s important to organize them because there are two different color designs. If you look closely you’ll see a walnut stripe in each segment center, but you’ll also notice that some segments have a cherry base and some have a maple base.
When the two segment types have been separated from one another and organized into two piles we can then gather the outer rippings for the banding. The outer rippings will serve to sandwich the segments together to form decorative wood inlay bandings.


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

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