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August 20, 2017

Creating Picture Frame Moulding

How To Make Picture Frame Moulding

 

“Happiness is the meaning and the purpose of life, the whole aim and end of human existence.”
Aristotle…Greek Philosopher (384 BC – 322 BC)

The Importance of Picture Frame Moulding 

 

How to Make Picture Frame Moulding made in the Woodworking Shop - how to make picture frame moulding

Picture Frame Moulding made in the Woodworking Shop

Many of us are surrounded with pictures that we cherish. We may have pictures of family and friends throughout the years. Then again we may have photographs of special occasions such as births, weddings, or graduations. Simply put, we have pictures and art work that are everyday reminders of many pleasant thoughts and memories. In this woodworking video and article we are focused on how to make picture frame moulding that we have created in the workshop.

 

Picture Frame Moulding made in the Wood Shop

Now, it is easy to drive over to the nearest discount store or frame shop to purchase a picture frame, however we as woodworkers have a tremendous advantage. However, we can learn how to make picture frame moulding and frames right in our woodworking shop. We can be creative and make unique picture frame mouldings and custom frames for our own collection of pictures. We have many choices of woods and wood tones from which to select. We can also embellish our frames as we see fit. Moreover, we can take pride in using our acquired skills to make our own custom picture moulding and frames.

 

Picture Frame Moulding Profiles

 

For our picture frame moulding we are using a 3/4″ roundover bit in the router table and we are also using dado blades in the table saw. The dado blades will cut a rabbet and it will also cut a dado that will house a decorative wood inlay.

In the woodworking video we can see how the woodworker takes a flat board and turns it into picture frame moulding ready to be mitered. We can pay attention to how the woodworker sets up featherboards to control the cutting action on the router table and on the table saw. Then we can view how a sacrificial fence is used when cutting dadoes on the table saw and also how push sticks are utilized for safety.

Best of all, once the picture frame is complete with picture and hanging on the wall we will also have the enjoyable memory of our time well spent being creative and productive in the woodworking shop.

 

For more information on making picture frames see…How to Make Picture Frames with Wood Inlay.



The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

 

How to Make Picture Frames with Wood Inlay

Make Picture Frames with Wood Inlay

 

The Problem…
When you want to apply quality wood inlay to to make picture frames, where will you get it? What designs will you get? How much will you have to pay for it?

 

The Solution…
We use our woodworking skills. We also make picture frames with our own shop made wood inlay.  (We will make  picture frames too with shop made mouldings!)

 

Make Picture Frames that are Decorative

 

In this post we sharing how to make picture frames with wood inlay. As you seen in previous postings we have been busy creating bandings of shop made wood inlay. There are a variety of wood inlay designs now available for our use at this time. So now we are in the process of creating picture frame moulding that has a dado which will house the wood inlays. The picture frame moulding was created on the tablesaw and on the router table using a 3/4″ round over bit with a ball bearing guide.

 

The gallery of pictures reveal the set up to make mouldings for picture frames on the table saw and for the band saw. (The router table was set up with the fence and featherboards as well.)

Make Picture Frames with Shop Made Bandings

 

All the wood inlay bandings are cut to a uniform thickness of just a hair over 1/16″ as measured by a dial caliper. The set up that you see allows for control of this uniform thickness. The shop made bandsaw rip fence has been adjusted for band saw blade “drift” and the Rockler thin rip table saw jig with a roller bearing is set to the desired thickness for the wood inlay bandings. Note: The jig remains stationary for this operation and the rip fence is adjusted before each rip cut is made. Simply slide the material over against the bearing on the right and then slide the rip fence alongside the left side of the material to be ripped. This technique works wonderfully. 1.) Maximize the material as there is very, very little waste! 2.)All ripped bandings are of uniform thickness!

 

The pictures of the table saw operation reveal a sacrificial fence for the dado blade. Notice how the featherboards control how the material will be maintained during the cut. The is no upward or lateral movement. The only direction for the wood is forward. (This is also applies to the band saw ripping technique…just one direction of movement…forward!)

 

We can also see the variety of wood inlays in the dados of the picture frame moulding. It’s nice to have a variety of choices to make picture frames. (The mouldings are made from a tropical wood called Cumala.)

 

Recommended Videos…Cutting Thin Strips on the Band Saw

Making Wood Inlay on the Bandsaw

Check out exquisite wood inlay designsBuffard Freres…The 1926 Wood Inlay Banding Catalog

 


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

 

23…Let’s Build a Jewelry Box…Part 6…Joinery

“If you do not expect it, you will not find the unexpected, for it is hard to find and difficult.”
…Heraclitus 500 B.C.

This woodworking online episode is part of the Let’s Build Series

Woodworking Tips and Techniques:
1.) Creating a wedged tenon joint.

We continue with Part 6 of our arts and crafts wood project, how to make a jewelry box with Koa wood veneerdrill bit, . We begin our joinery process by finding the center on the wooden box lid. To do this we use a straight edge of a combination square to mark diagonally across the corners of the lid. Once the center is located we line it up to the center of the brad point bit at the drill press. To secure the lid of the jewelry box for the boring we adjust the hold down clamps and sliding stop blocks of the drill press table. This makes for a safe, reliable, and accurate method of drilling. The drill bit we have chosen is slightly larger than the tenon of the handle because the tenon will be expanding inside of the mortise.

A wedged tenon joint.

We are making a wedged tenon joint. The mortise and tenon will be very tight once the wedge is set in place and pressed to fit. At the workbench we set the jewelry box handle in the woodworking vice and proceed to bore a 1/16″ hole through the tenon to where the tip of the wedge will be pressed. Next, we saw into the center of the tenon with a thin kerfed japanese saw. Our cut is made across the grain and down to the hole we just bored.

Now, we make the wedge. We could cut a wedge on the band saw however, we are working quickly today due to the 103 degree desert heat. In this case we pick up a leftover piece of Koa veneer and flip on the switch of the disc sander. Within a few seconds we have created a wedge that will work perfectly for our joinery. We then cut the wedge to length and focus on taping around both sides of the mortise with green tape. This will protect the Koa wood from getting excess glue.

We are using cyanoacrylate glue as the adhesive for our wooden joint since we are working quickly. We spread the super glue at its location on the lid and also on the tenon. The bottom of the handle and saw kerf also receive a dab of glue. Now we place the tenon into the mortise and carefully set the tip of the wedge into the tenon’s kerf.

The next step is an important procedure in this process. We place the assembly of the lid, handle, and wedge into the workbench vise and once lined up we slowly crank the handle of the vise to press-fit the wedge into place. This locks the mortise and tenon and creates a very secure joint.

Some woodworkers may be inclined to tap the wedge home with a mallet. This may work some of the time however, it can create problems as well. Keep in mind that when hammering the wedge there is vibration taking place that can lead to misalignment of the joinery. Vibration can lead to cracking of the wood as well. However, we line up the joinery in the vice and then securely squeeze the wedge into the tenon for a pressed fit. .

Notice in the video that a spray accelerator was used to set the cyanoacrylate glue on the lid’s bottom. This further helped to speed up the process so that the exposed joint could be sanded and prepared for the finish.

We choose to use a Watco natural danish oil for our finish. We apply multiple coats of the oil to bring out the beautiful chatoyance of the premium curly Koa. Note: (Be sure to safely dispose of oily rags to prevent fires.)

We have completed the Koa wood veneered jewelry box utilizing a variety of woodworking tools that include the band saw, vacuum press, table saw, jointer, open drum sander, drill press, wood lathe, and the disc sander.

Our accuracy and skill level for this woodworking project has been improved by the use of various table saw sleds. We have used the cross cut sled, dedicated miter sled, and the flat board miter sled. We have also applied a few woodworking tips for this wood project. These tips include the use of tape to hinge our miter joints when gluing the joints. We also used blue and green tape to protect the wood from the excess glue. Furthermore, we used paper shims against the stop block of the cross cut sled to achieve pin point accuracy when fitting wooden components of the jewelry box.

The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

Let’s Build a Jewelry Box…Part 5…Woodturning

Woodturning a Handle for a Jewelry Box

This woodworking online episode is part of the Let’s Build Series

Woodworking Tips and Techniques:

1.) Using cyanoacrylate glue for a quick glue-up…along with a spray accelerator.
2.) Turning wood using a spindle gouge with a fingernail grind.

Koa Jewelry Box - Woodturning the KnobIn this episode we continue with our woodturning project, a Koa wood veneer jewelry box. If you recall we started out this woodworking project with a small amount of Koa and our goal from the beginning was to test our woodworking skills to see how far we can maximize the amount of wood we have available to us. Our focus throughout has been on accuracy.

“Continuous effort- not strength or intelligence- is the key to unlocking our potential.
Sir Winston Churchill
1874-1965, Former British Prime Minister

The wooden veneered box is already made. The lid is beveled and trimmed to size to fit on the box so now we need a handle for the lid. At this point we have a decision to make about the design of the handle. Should it be long and arched? Should it be of Japanese influence? We are going to do something different. Why? One of the goals with this project is to exercise various learned woodworking skills. So far we have covered slicing wood veneer on the band saw and using the vacuum press as a clamp for laminating the veneer packets. We have also demonstrated the use of a number of table saw sleds which include the dedicated miter sled, the flat board miter sled, and the cross cut sled. Also we have made use of the sacrificial fence for the table saw when we used the dado blades to cut the rabbets. On top of that we have also beveled the lid with the aid of a shopmade tenoning jig. So, we are going to move forward and head over to the woodworking lathe to woodturn a handle out of Koa wood for the jewelry box lid.

Versatility is key when building fine woodworking projects and many times it helps to know how to get results using different methods. We have a small amount of Koa remaining so we are going to use glue to laminate pieces of wood into a turning blank. Typically, we will use yellow glue and let the glue-up cure overnight. However, in this case we are moving full speed ahead. Since it is about 103 degrees in the desert today we are going to use cyanoacrylate glue to laminate the Koa for the woodturning blank. Along with the glue we are using a spray accelerator for a faster cure. (Obviously, be very care when using a super glue like this. Do not let it get on your skin or in your eyes!)

Laminating three wood blocks for a Koa Jewelry Box Knob - WoodturningAfter we cut three pieces of 5/8″ thick Koa we head to the woodworking bench where we bond the woodturning blank together. When cured we then put fresh cuts on the end of the blank. We then find the centers of the blank and set the drive spur. From here it is just a matter of setting up the blank on the wood lathe between the drive spur and the live center. Now it is time for wood turning.

The woodturning tools used for this wood project are the roughing gouge, the diamond parting tool, and a spindle gouge that has a fingernail grind. Note: (You will notice in the woodworking video that the fingernail grind has a unique angle. The reason for this angle is to allow for a wider range of cutting action.On the other hand a typical spindle gouge has a conventional grind. If a woodturner is going to use a spindle gouge with a fingernail grind then it is commonsense that the wood turner will need to know how to recreate this angle at the grinding wheel at the bench grinder when the tool dulls. Some manufacturers of lathe gouges market expensive signature gouges that come with a fingernail grind. Chances are you will need to sharpen the tool before you start turning on the lathe so keep this in mind when purchasing. One way or the other you will need to know how to grind the tool. You can get the same cutting results by just learning how to produce a fingernail grind on a spindle gouge that came with a conventional grind. Chances are you will save some money as well.)

Koa Jewelry Box with Knob - Woodturning  on wood latheThe woodturning video pretty well speaks for itself. You will see how a tenon is made and you will notice how the tenon held in the lathe chuck for the turning of the handle. Once the handle is shaped we begin sanding as the lathe is turning. We move up in sandpaper grits as we go and then finally we burnish the Koa handle with the wood shavings. So, now that we have learned how to woodturn a handle for the koa wood jewelry box, we will focus on joinery in the next posting.

 

More Woodturning Videos:

Segmented Woodturning a 9″ x 12″  Vase

Segmented Woodturning a Fruit Bowl – Part 1

Segmented Woodturning a Fruit Bowl – Part 2

 


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

21…Let’s Build a Jewelry Box…Part 4

Earl Nightingale…”You become what you think about.”

This woodworking online episode is part of the Let’s Build Series

Woodworking Tips and Techniques:

1.) Green adhesive tape is used to control the spread of the wood glue.
2.) The MDF is concealed by gluing a rabbeted top onto the veneered side walls.
3.) Paper shims are used against the adjustable stop block on the cross cut sled when trimming the box lid.
4.) The lid is placed directly onto the existing box to mark for cutting its width and length. (no measuring is needed.)
5.) The jewelry box lid is cut for length by using a cross cutting sled for the table saw.
6.) Bevels for the lid are cut with a sliding woodworking jig for the table saw.

In the woodworking shop we continue the building of the jewelry box by preparing to glue the rabbeted top onto the wood veneered side walls. To control the spread of the yellow glue we place green tape next to the area that is to be glued. Once all the adhesive tape is in place we curl the bottom of the tape so it becomes a catch for any possible dripping glue. The next step is to spread the wood glue onto the top of the walls and also onto the bottom side of the Koa rabbeted top. When we have spread the glue we place the top in its place and adjust for the 1/16″ overhang in each direction. For the purpose of clamping we set the oversized lid on top of the jewelry box and then place a few weights on this fine woodworking project.

How to make an accurate fit for the lid.

When the adhesive is set we turn our attention to fitting the lid to the rabbeted top. Here we will place the lid against the rabbets and mark for width and length using a sharp pencil. Next it is time to rip the lid on the table saw and return to the jewelry box for fitting. Since the lid is just a hair wide we take the piece to the jointer to remove a very small amount. Once the width is OK we cut for length at the table saw using the cross cut sled. When we test for length we are a bit long so we head back to the cross cut sled. In this situation we keep the stop block in place. We simply fold a piece of paper over to act as a shim and place it next to the stop block. Then we slide the lid against the shim to make our trim cut. Next, we successfully fit the lid into the rabbets where there is an even margin at all four sides.

Our lid will have beveled sides and ends so we will cut the bevels at the table saw with the aid of a shop made woodworking jig. This table saw accessory fits over the Biesemeyer fence and slides along table saw fence in a controlled manner as there is a convenient handle that forces the jig downwards and forwards. The lid is secured in the jig with a horizontal quick-release toggle clamp. Note: The table saw jig also serves as a tenoning jig.

Watch more woodworking videos!


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

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