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May 29, 2017

Archives for July 2010

11…Let’s Build a Drill Press Table

Drill Press Table for Woodworking 

This episode is part of the Let’s Build Series

The drill press is a terrific tool in the woodworking shop especially when it has a drill press table that conveniently clamps the work, provides a fence for repeatable and accurate cuts, and also offers a safer working environment. The drill press was originally set up for metal working and most tables that come with the drill press are small metal tables. As a result, they can be rather awkward for use in the woodworking shop. (The video shows how to make a drill press table specifically for woodworking.)
A better solution for the woodworker is to buy or make a woodworking drill press table. It’s a great woodworking project that will turn the drill press into one the great woodworking tools for your shop. If you buy one of these tables you are typically looking at paying at least $100. However, you can make your own drill press table and you can be working with it easily within a few hours. Also, you can customize it to your liking. Perhaps you would like to add a port for a shop vac, maybe a drawer for storing drill bits, or maybe due to shop size you will prefer a certain size table for your drill press.

Woodworking drill press tableThe material for the drill press table that is shown in the woodworking video is made from 3/4″ thick shelving with a plastic laminate surface. The material came from one of the big box hardware stores, however the 2′ x 8′ shelving was damaged on a corner and sold as 50 cent culled material.

The hardware that was added makes all the difference in the world. T Track, T bolts,  and knobs are what you see with this table.

If you have grown accustomed to working with a small metal drill press table, you will likely find drill press tables to be very handy to work with and very convenient. The addition of an adjustable fence is a huge plus and the hold down clamps work very securely. (You will find that drilling out mortises are a snap.) Moreover, the adjustable stop blocks offer repeatability as well as accuracy. When you decide to switch over to the new drill press table you will find that your work also flows much smoother. You are likely to experience much more control and also feel a greater sense of confidence when working on various woodworking projects. Let us know how your drill press table works out for you.


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

Double Bevel Marquetry…a Tulip of Various Woods

One of the beautiful aspects of woodworking is that there are so many facets to the craft. Marquetry is one of these woodworking crafts that requires just  basic woodworking tools and is well with the reach for all of us. For this woodworking project we will learn how to make a tulip using double bevel marquetry techniques. The primary shop tools used for this wood project are the scroll saw, table saw, and the band saw. The hardwoods selected for this project came from a number of wood species that were in the scrap bin. Selected woods for this woodworking project  include hickory, maple, padauk, and poplar.

Our woodworking plan starts with choosing a design for the marquetry. In this instance the tulip design for this woodworking project was derived from a picture of a tulip that was located on the internet and then printed. The wood veneers used in the marquetry are 3/32″ thick and they were sliced on the band saw. A veneer of hickory was chosen as the background due to its warm colors and also because of  its interesting grain pattern. The hickory veneer was then lightly sprayed with an adhesive and the printed tulip picture was then pressed onto it. The picture of the tulip  becomes an outline for making the appropriate cuts on the scroll saw with its table set to six degrees.  One might wonder “why is the scroll saw table is set at an angle of six degrees?”  The reason is because we will be cutting through a taped packet consisting of two layers of veneer at one time and the angle will compensate for the saw kerf of the scroll saw blade. Note: 1.) Select a thin, fine scroll saw blade. 2.) Select a drill bit that is equal to the scroll saw blade.  3.) Use masking or blue tape to secure the packet of veneer layers to be cut. 4.) Drill an entry hole at a 6 degree angle to feed the scroll saw blade through the veneer packet.

So, what happens to the two layers of veneer being cut? Good question! One layer (hickory…the background veneer) becomes waste and the new veneer layer is then nestled into the angled cut of the hickory background piece. Remember, both veneers are being cut at the six degree angle at the same time so the infill piece will fit right into the area just removed. Once we have a good fit it is then time to apply a small amount of glue to the mating parts. We’ll use yellow glue and then apply dampened veneer tape on the back side opposite the picture to secure the placement of the new inlay. Give it a little time to set up and then we are ready to cut another section following the glued  picture of the tulip as our guide. Be selective of the choice of woods in order to “paint your picture.” The wood colors and grains will all contribute to the finished product.

As we go about the process of cutting, fitting, and gluing parts in place at the workbench you may wonder how it will look when completed because at this stage it can appear “rough.” There’s still paper on the surface and glue as well.  Don’t worry and just keep pushing through because it will all clean up. Once all the parts are in place and the glue has set it’s time add a backer veneer to stabilize the woods of the face veneer. Simply select a veneer similar in wood density to the face veneer and cut to size. Then just glue the two veneers together. When the glue sets you’ll want to clean the clean the edges and make rectangular in preparation for the picture frame.

Next it’s time to prepare for the finish. Use a freshly sharpened card scraper to smooth the surface as it will give you a nicely planed surface. Sure, sandpaper can be used, however use caution as some exotic woods can bleed into other woods when sanding.

When the marquetry and the scraping is completed it’s time to frame the project just as you would a picture frame. It’s is a good idea to employ a sanding sealer to seal the surface of the veneers. Again use caution while wiping on the sealer to avoid any bleeding if using exotic woods. Then it’s a matter of choosing the wood finish.

Keep in mind that marquetry can be used in a variety of ways. For instance, a woodworker may employ marquetry in furniture pieces like as a desk or table top. Perhaps you’ve even seen marquetry applied to the face of cabinet doors. Let your imagination guide you along the way for your own woodworking projects and you’ll discover that it’s a great way to enjoy your time in the woodworking shop.

So, if you would like to get started in double bevel marquetry simply cut a few veneers and just practice on them for a while. Get the feel of cutting on an angle at the scroll saw. Remember, it’s normal to break a few blades and have some mistakes in the beginning. Accept that and move forward. Before long you’ll get the hang of it and you’ll be creating with confidence. Enjoy the process of double bevel marquetry!


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

Congratulations to Lumberjocks.com!

There are now 20,000 Lumberjocks members on Lumberjocks.com. This woodworking website was created by Martin Sojka. The following is a quote from Martin.

“I was dreaming about reaching 100 LumberJocks one day when I launched this website in 2005… Then, when it got going, 1,000 seemed likely but 20,000? No way! Fast forward to July 2010 and it’s party time once again in our family of 20,000 LumberJocks. I’m thankful and overcome with happiness that you decided to make this online community part of your life.

Sometimes I come across a post about ‘the good old days’. Yes, ‘the old days’ were really good but despite our huge growth I’m sure that our core essence is still intact and it will prevail. This woodworking community is still about creating, sharing, inspiring, motivating and learning. As a result, you can admire more fantastic projects and follow more successful woodworking stories every day.

I assure you that great news and updates are coming soon and that I will always strive to preserve our unique LumberJocks spirit.”

Thank you Martin for creating a terrific site and a wonderful woodworking online community. Here’s to your continued success and to the further success of fellow woodcrafters known as Lumberjocks !

How to make Bandings for Wood Inlay…Part 2

In Part 2 we continue to learn how to make decorative wood inlay bandings.

Once the banding segments are organized we can now focus on creating the interior design. We’ll need a few outer rippings that will sandwich the segments together and keep them in alignment. You’ll notice in the picture that the outer hardwoods are walnut and maple glued together. In this case the walnut will be on the inside with the maple on the outside. The reason for this is to create contrasting colors within the wood inlay bandings. This will stand out nicely once laid into the mahogany picture frames.

Here you can see the completed wood inlay bandings as they appear after gluing. 1.) Notice how the triangular segments nestle and align with one another. 2.) Also, take a close look at how the maple, walnut, and cherry contrast one another within the pattern’s design. 3.) The length of the wood inlay bandings are a greater than the longer side of the picture frame to be inlaid. This means a full wood inlay bandings length can be inlaid into the frame which eliminates smaller banding pieces being fit and glued. 4.) Two for the price of one…The two wood inlay bandings pictured are of similar design, however their interior designs have opposite color combinations. (Remember that we organized the segments into two separate piles in Part 1.)

The block plane has jointed one side of the wood inlay banding being held in the bench vise and now the designs for the wood inlays are clearly revealed.

The two wood inlay bandings pictured are a result of our work in this tutorial. Each of the wood inlay bandings shown above will be more than enough for a picture frame.

The first wood inlay banding pattern has been ripped on the bandsaw and we have (6) bandings of 1/8″ thickness. The second banding pattern will produce the same.

A simple mitre jig clamped to the workbench and a fine toothed dovetail saw are all that are needed to cut mitres for our wood inlay bandings. You will notice in the companion video, How to install Wood Inlay that a sanding block is used to trim the decorative wood inlay bandings for proper fit. The sanding block is simply a fine grit sanding belt from a belt sander tightly wrapped around a block of wood.

Now it’s just a matter of trimming and fitting the inlay into the project. Note: When sanding the finished project remember that the banding is fairly thin and that the wood veneer can quickly disappear.

Once you acquire the skill of creating wood inlay bandings you’ll more than likely develop a desire to create more banding designs. You’ll likely find yourself making “wood jewelry” in your woodworking shop. Moreover, if you are a woodworker like me you’ll soon have a family of inlaid frames on your walls as well. Good luck with your inlay and fine woodworking projects and be sure to let me know if you have any questions. I hope you enjoyed this inlay how to and if you would like to share your wood projects be sure to send them to this link.


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

How to make Wood Inlay Bandings…Part 1

Has there ever been a time when you came across decorative wood inlay bandings that were inlaid into a fine piece of furniture, perhaps a jewelry box, or even a distinctive picture frame. Then you asked yourself the question “How did they create a banding of this design?” A few times I have wondered that same question too. Fortunately, a few years ago I came across a terrific woodworking video. It was on this video that I witnessed a craftsman as he explained the process of how to create wood inlay bandings of this particular design. In part 1 of this article we will learn how to make decorative wood inlay bandings. The following is my interpretation of the veneer inlay techniques.

Pictured above is the look that we are after. Notice how the color designs of the wood inlay bandings are different from one another and yet their basic pattern is alike. This woodworking tutorial will show you how to get two wood inlay bandings for the price of one.
Hardwoods of maple, walnut, and cherry were chosen for the wood inlay. A 7/16″ wide plough was dadoed into the face of the picture frames so the the wood inlay bandings will be made just a bit wider than that. Later they will be trimmed by sanding and then fit into place.

Decorative wood inlay bandings

For ripping I use a thin rip tablesaw jig. Set the bearing of the jig in front to the left side of the blade for your desired width of cut. Now, adjust the board to be cut against the bearing and then slide the table saw fence over to the right side of the board. Then lock the fence. The maple board is ready to be ripped as it has already been through the thickness planer and the parallel edges have been prepared at the jointer. In the picture above notice that a zero clearance insert is being used along with a table saw splitter while ripping. This is critically important to avoid kickback.

Decorative wood inlay bandings

Here you can see the interior strips that are being glued together. Notice how walnut and maple contrast one another.

Hand Planing bandings - Decorative wood inlay bandings

One edge of the banding interior has been jointed with the block plane to form a straight edge. So now we can take the piece over to the band saw.

Creating bandings - Decorative wood inlay bandings

At the band saw we will rip the rough edge off so we will have two parallel edges for the interior of the banding. Then we are ready to create the segments that will form the design for the banding interior.

Decorative wood inlay bandings

The segments are cut on the table saw with the aid of a sled that provides zero clearance. The fence on the left is set to 45 degrees to the sawblade. A preliminary 45 degree cut has been made and now the right side of the blade and the short point of the banding’s angle are in alignment. Notice how the stopblock on the right is set to the long point of the banding. This will give consistent segment lengths for all of our cuts.

Once a segment is cut just simply flip the banding edge for edge and continue this practice after each segment is cut. Note: 1.) A sharp blade is imperative. 2.) Stay on the safe side and wear a faceshield.

Banding segments for wood inlay - Decorative wood inlay bandings

Now the segments are cut and it’s important to organize them because there are two different color designs. If you look closely you’ll see a walnut stripe in each segment center, but you’ll also notice that some segments have a cherry base and some have a maple base.
When the two segment types have been separated from one another and organized into two piles we can then gather the outer rippings for the banding. The outer rippings will serve to sandwich the segments together to form decorative wood inlay bandings.


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

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