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July 27, 2017

Segmented Woodturning – Salad Bowl set of maple & walnut…part 2

Segmented Woodturning - Sanding flat one side

Segmented Woodturning

On the following day after the glue has set,  the band clamps are removed. It is time to begin truing up the ring of segments of our segmented woodturning. In order to attain flatness on one of the ring’s edge we’ll lay a segment of the ring flat on the bed of the disc sander. It’s important to maintain a 90 degree angle during this operation. We’ll take the time and to make sure of accuracy. When the edge is truly flat we can then proceed to the wood lathe.

The straightedge of a combination square tests for flatness - Segmented Woodturning

Now the ring is mounted on the wood lathe and the opposite edge is being turned so that it is flat and parallel. The straightedge of a combination square is placed against the edge and indicates that there are no gaps. This is a good sign.
Measuring the mortise with a dial caliper - Segmented WoodturningThe depth of the mortise is being checked to allow for the base to be let in. The dial caliper is indicating 1/4″ . The base is 3/4″ maple. The depth of this mortise is fine to allow for a good glue bond.
a faceplate secures the maple base - Segmented WoodturningThe maple base of the segmented woodturning pictured to the right has been bandsawed to the diameter of the ring. Notice that screws are used to attach a waste block. Hot melt glue gun is used to adhere the maple base to the waste block.  So now it’s time to true-up the tenon of the base on the lathe.
The mortise and the tenon of the salad bowl - Segmented WoodturningHere’s how the base looks after it is trued-up and sized. The tenon matches the mortise in depth and diameter. When you have a good fit it is time for gluing the two parts of the segmented woodturning together.
Gluing and clamping the base and the ring of the salad bowl - Segmented WoodturningIt’s a simple matter of applying an adequate amount of yellow glue to the joint of the ring and base. Clamp firmly and allow the glue dry.  A good rule of thumb is to allow the glue to set-up overnight before turning the  bowl on the wood lathe.
Gluing and clamping the salad bowlsHere you can see a number of the smaller bowls as well as the tossing bowl. The process of segmented woodturning is easier and more efficient when you can find a rhythm. What do I mean by that?

Here’s it in a nutshell. I’ll cut all the segments on the miter saw at one time. I’ll perform my glue-ups all at the same time. I’ll do all of my tenons for the small bowls at the same time and then all the mortises at the same time. You get the idea. It’s a matter of making the most of your setups during the segmented woodturning process..
Small bowl mounted to the wood lathe chuck - Segmented WoodturningHere’s how the small bowl looks when it’s mounted and ready to be turned.
Salad bowl is mounted to the jumbo jaws of the wood lathe - Segmented WoodturningAnd…here is how the bowl looks after a little turning. The bottom will now be completed. (Take a second and note the hollowed out area at this time. This area allows for lathe chuck to grip the bowl for the previous operation. The outside walls of this mortise are angled out to allow for a dovetail-like grip of the chuck.)
The large salad bowl is mounted to the wood lathe chuckThe tossing bowl measures 10 1/2″ by  5″. It is turned to shape, sanded, and burnished with sawdust.
The salad bowl set is prepared for a food safe wood finishThe entire set of bowls are now completed except for the wood finish.  The next step is to remove all the dust from the segmented woodturning. I’ll use the air compressor for this operation. Then numerous coats of a  food-safe finish called Tried and True are applied.

Salad bowl set is completed

Watch these Woodturning Videos:

Let’s Turn Salt and Pepper Mills – How to Woodturn

Segmented Wood Turning – Fruit Bowl…part 1

Segmented Woodturning – Fruit Bowl – part 2

Segmented Woodturning – 9″ x 12″ Vase


The Apprentice and The Journeyman University

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Comments

  1. Stuart Reid says:

    Can you provide the dimensions for this great project? I can figure out the angles easy enough but the width & height of the segments would be useful for a newbie like me. Thanks and I really enjoy your website! I can’t tell you how much I have learned about safety issues and how do do things with my power tools. keep up the good work.

    Stu

  2. Stuart,

    The dimensions of the smaller salad bowls.
    Here are the finished dimensions…outside diameter of the bowl is 5-1/2″…the outside diameter tapers to 4-3/4″ at the top & 5-1/4″ at the base.
    Overall height of the bowl is 2-1/2″. The base reveal is 1/2″ on the outside. On the inside of the bowl…the wall height is 1-3/4″. (Remember that the base has a tenon that is let into a mortise at the bottom of the wall section.

    The larger bowl.
    The mixing bowl has an outside diameter of 10″ at its widest point. The overall height is 5-1/4″.

    Note: Be sure to hollow out the base (a bit) on the underside. This will help to control any wood movement for the base.

    Be sure to set the angles dead-on. It’s critical. (Test your angles using scrap material…just like was shown in the article.) Once the angles are dialed in….go for it.

    Please keep in touch and let me know if you have any questions along the way. Your feedback is critical towards the progress of the blog.
    Keep working safely, focus on the process, and be patient. The results will come.
    Bob

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